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Hi there,

Love your blog, it's a joy to read - thanks for taking time to do it.

I have a bit of a nerdy question that you've probably answered many times - what length jeans should I buy for a decent turn-up/cuff that shows off my engineer boots?

Should I still buy one size up in length or just get my normal length? I'm 32" leg but I bought some 34" from Rumble59 - it makes for a great chunky turn-up with converse but doesn't show off enough of a boot. Do you think it'd be best to get my actual 32" length so I get more of a reveal of the boot on a turn-up?

Sorry man, bit of a goofy noob question but just wondering what you usually do yourself.

Many thanks for taking the time to read!

All the best from London,
Charlie

www.vintageengineerboots.com

Hey Charlie!
Thanks for the e-mail and I appreciate that you enjoy the blog! 
That's actually a great question. It really boils down to personal taste and most importantly, the style and fit. I wear a 29" inseam in dress pants for a clean look and normally buy a 32" (34" max if I really like the jeans and it's the only length available). Obviously, you're looking at much longer inseam if the denim is raw. 

29" inseam on a pair of 1930's trousers

When I first began buying premium selvedge denim, I would (for some reason) always go for a size up on the waist on top of a relaxed fit. The result was very ill-fitting jeans.

Or should I say, HORRENDOUSLY-fitting jeans (ca. 2005)

These are the same 1930's Lee Cowby jeans today, but look a bit more acceptable (in my body frame) with a higher cuff.

It wasn't until my wife, Jillian, opened my eyes to jeans meant to proportionately fit my build that I started buying slimmer jeans. Sixteen years ago, however, slim jeans weren't as easy to come by as they are today and even harder to come by were slim selvedge. Enter Mister Freedom. I owned a lot of denim from his Naval and SpeedSafe collection, but it wasn't until the Lot. 64's that I discovered my favorite pair of jeans ... ever.

My first pair of 64s (13oz.) with the "Double Cuff"

The Lot. 64 is inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans with a 1960′s twist -- Silhouette inspired by vintage fits and old photography, BRMC meets Beatniks. Traditional mid-rise with straight slightly tapered leg.

Lot. 64 Okinawa (14oz.) with three rolls on Attractions Co. Engineer Boots

Lot. 64 Okinawa with three rolls on Role Club Engineer Boots to show the buckles.

If you calculate the cuffs just right from the start, you can afford yourself the option to roll your denim two or three times depending on your mood or style of boots. 

Lot. 64 Okinawa with two rolls on Role Club Engineer Boots

Lot. 64 Okinawa with two rolls on Role Club Engineer Boots

Lot. 64 Okinawa with three rolls on Role Club Engineer Boots

Lot. 64 Okinawa with three rolls on Attractions Co. Engineer Boots

I learned the "double cuff"from a high school friend back in the early 1990's where he intentionally purchased long inseams to get that exaggerated cuff. This type of cuff reduced the thickness/bulk caused by rolling up three or four times. With the double cuff, you simply fold the cuff up twice the length you want your final (second) cuff width to be and then fold again. On some of my jeans, I fold the second cuff to right below the hem in order to expose the chain stitched finish and hem roping.

Notice the hem peaking out from the "Double Cuff" of the Lot. 64 (13oz.)

I rocked what I personally call the "CL" (Christophe Loiron) cuffs for a while before noticing a ton of other collectors doing thee same and reverted back. 

The "CL" 

For a bulbous or steel toe Engineer, I like to wear a longer leg with a 4-5" cuff. This setup just makes sense to me for chunky boots.

Levi's with Double Cuff on Chippewa 27899s resoled by Brian the Bootmaker

Of course, when you own the Glow-in-the-Dark Engineers you just cuff 'em super high ... to expose everything.

I normally wear my LVC 1947's with a double 3"cuff to expose the buckles of my boots, but every now and then a few small cuffs equaling a double 3 suits my fancy.

Careful consideration should be given to cuffs when worn with work boots. I think three rolls on my Okinawa's look great with my Lofgren's, but won't necessary look the same with my other laced boots.

Lot. 64 Okinawa with three rolls on the John Lofgren "Donkey Punchers"

My "Blacksmith" jeans (RS Money Bags) by Rising Sun jeans will always look good with a smaller cuff in my opinion.

RS Money Bags on Attractions Co. Engineer Boots

Try out the Double Cuff on the 34 inseam you picked up and that should reduce the chunk. I recommend playing with a cuff width that'll work for both your Converse and boots before committing -- allowing creases or boot marks develop.

I hope this helps.

Cheers!

John